This time we're unboxing Best Affordable Gel Blaster - the PDX, from WD. Although the main body of the gel blaster is made of nylon, it feels great in the hand. You can see three screws on the front rail, two on the bow guard, and one on the handle. The seams are gapless, and there's no deformation or strange sounds when force is applied, making it a top-notch gel blaster. Some rough edges and mold lines haven't been processed, and the nylon is unpainted. The stock extension rod is metal, while the rest is nylon. The stock interface is larger than the JM8, so stocks are not interchangeable. These details represent the mainstream gel blaster's standard of craftsmanship.Before you decide to buy the best affordable gel blaster on TriggerToy,you can read the blog to learn more about PDX.Here's the WD PDX order link.
When I first saw it, I thought it was the PDX from JJ, because the two gel blasters really look similar. What do you guys think?
Disassemble WD PDX
What puzzles me about the Weidi PDX is that it has an integrated handguard and receiver, yet it still maintains a threaded setup at the front.
The outer diameter of the gel blaster's handguard is 34.5mm, slightly smaller than the usual handguard size of 35mm. The thread stop slot is positioned towards the front. You can also fit a 416 handguard with some padding. However, the handguard stop block needs to be thinned by more than 2mm (it would be simpler to grind the rail slot). But it's worth noting that the same grinding is required when replacing the handguard on the JJ PDX with a 416 one.
Disassemble Handguard of WD PDX
The gel blaster's handguard this time uses an SMR DDC, which is easy to disassemble:
Step 1.Remove the handguard end cap, unscrew the handguard ring, and take out the outer barrel.Step 2.Remove the three screws at the top of the receiver to take out the top rail, unscrew the two screws on the bow protector, knock out the two pins at the front and back, and remove the magazine catch.
Step 3. Remove the bottom screw of the grip, and you can then separate the two halves of the receiver.
Step 4. Finally, remove the screws that connect the gearbox to the receiver at the three-way junction, and you can then remove the gearbox.
The Gearbox of WD PDX
The gearbox is an upgraded JM 8 version, equipped with a mechanical trigger group, speed selector switch, pre-supply switch, bolt carrier linkage recoil mechanism, internal wiring group, and XT30 interface. I feel the WD PDX could accommodate a JM 8 gearbox, I'll try it with a JM8 gearbox next time.
I should have tried the JM8 gearbox PDX, it's a shame I missed it. The gearbox has many screws, golden teeth, golden ladder, 7mm bushing, 70% cylinder, 17cm inner barrel, plenty of lubrication, and a 150mm 1.2 spring. It's tested at 68-72@20Hz. It's rare to find one that can achieve 20 rounds per second in its factory state.
The outer diameter of the nozzle and the inner diameter of the three-way junction are smaller than JM's, and the length is about 1mm longer, so you can't directly use JM's. The nozzle has no O-ring, and the cylinder head has a lot of lubricating grease, which I think doesn't need to be changed.
The Nozzle of WD PDX
The absence of an O-ring on the nozzle makes me uncomfortable, so I'll have to replace it with a full set from Jinming. The original three-way junction head has a step, which is clamped by the gearbox for inner barrel stabilization; there's a bulge on the feeding tube that secures the gearbox, preventing it from rotating. The JM8 three-way junction of course doesn't have these two designs, and direct installation has issues with forward and backward movement and swinging. I wrap tape around the inner barrel to the size of the outer barrel seat, place three three-way springs, and fill the three-way position with hot melt glue. It works just as well.
Tightening the spring on the three-way junction can prevent the hot melt glue from coming off under pressure. If you directly replace the JM nozzle, you'll find that the nozzle can't reach the three-way junction, and there's an air leak. There's a type of silicone nozzle head that's about 1mm longer than the regular Jinming head. Replace it (or pad the rubber head with an O-ring).
The original bolt carrier's flag is about 2mm further back than the Jinming model. Combined with the extended nozzle, you'll find that the unlocking distance is not enough to pass the gel balls. You need to replace it with a JM bolt carrier.
After replacing the bolt carrier, you naturally lose the recoil, and you can just glue the plate to the gearbox shell with 704. The bolt carrier's return journey of about 1cm looks very strange and is also a source of problems. It's better to remove it.
The standard size JM nozzle can't effectively lock.
The original bolt carrier flag is about 2mm further back than the JM model, and the unlocking distance is also 2mm less.
The original bolt carrier + extended nozzle, the unlocking stroke is not enough, and the gel balls cannot pass through. After replacing the 50% cylinder, the speed slightly increased to 75-77. The motor is a 460 center shaft, which I estimate can be used with the Sky Bow ARP9 model. The motor frame is compatible with the J8's 480 motor frame, and if you're handy, you can try some modifications. The original motor is made of good materials. If I have spare parts, I want to try a 13:2 ratio, replace the bearings, use an M75 spring, and see if I can achieve 75@28Hz.
So, is As for this Best Affordable Gel Blaster,is this going to be your next choice?